Figgy adventures

With all the back to school vibes around, I began to wonder what the experience was like for kids in the time of the Hellion House books, or at least the Victorian era. There were differences in curriculum, but the experience of leaving summer freedom behind for the drudgery of the classroom would be consistent. No doubt back to school was woe and excitement in equal measure then as now.

Not surprisingly, the details of the experience depended a lot on who you were. There were boarding schools and day schools, and arrangements around meals provided by the school varied, especially between the economic brackets of the attendees. I did a little investigation into the kind of desserts/puddings kids would get (any excuse to research old recipes). There were intriguing names, such as “spotted dick” and “roly-poly.” They tended to be starchy and filling, with preserves or dried fruit as the primary interest. This makes sense, because a) children are bottomless pits b) the dishes could be cheaply produced in bulk and c) preserved fruit made sense in an era without reliable refrigeration and a still-evolving network of rapid long-distance travel.

Currants and raisins were the most common fruit in the recipes I found. Another staple was dried figs, which tended to appear on more upper-class menus. This interested me as I had a bag of dried figs and no idea what to do with them. In the spirit of deep research (and fridge cleaning) I looked around for period options and their modern equivalents to concoct an enjoyable, historically-adjacent treat. I ignored the figgy pudding of Christmas carol fame because where, o where, is my pudding basin? and also it’s still too warm for any dish I need to douse in alcohol and set on fire.

Happily there were plenty of non-flammable options. The first effort out of the oven was an apple and fig tart. It had some interesting features, including a layer of ground almonds at the bottom of the pie to soak up a yummy maple syrup sauce. Though promising, it wasn’t quite a five-star result. I like my pie fillings ooey-gooey and this was too dry and under-stuffed. Different apples and changing up the proportions would be necessary to make a properly sinful filling. I will give this one another go.

The second option I’m happy to share because it is a nicely-textured loaf that tastes like autumn. It rose well, has a moist crumb, and properly balances the sweet and spicy elements. This recipe soaks the dried figs in black tea to soften them, which imparts a faintly smoky taste that pairs beautifully with the other seasonings. I highly recommend grating the nutmeg fresh for maximum pop.  I could see the students at the University of Londria wrapping a slice in a napkin to eat while they bolted to their next class.

Here’s the recipe for that one. Pro tip: be sure to cut the woody stems out of the figs

Preheat oven to 350F

Sift:

1.5 cups of flour

1 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp baking soda

1/2 tsp cinnamon

1/2 tsp nutmeg (grated fresh)

Cream:

1/2 cup butter

2/3 cup brown sugar

Add: 3 eggs and 1 tsp vanilla

Then add the dry ingredients a bit at a time, along with:

1.5 cups of dried figs, chopped and soaked in very hot black tea for a half hour (then drain before adding to recipe)

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

Pour into a greased loaf tin and bake for 50 minutes

Cool on a wire rack before slicing.

Enjoy!